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Window Motor とは何か?(英語)

Yahoo! Group - Bedini_Monopole3 より。



The Unoffocial window motor FAQ.doc




Magnetic Window Motor frequently asked questions for the Bedini_monopole3 group

Q: What is a window motor?
Window Motor とは何?

A: The Magnetic window motor is a motor developed and tested in the 1980’s By John Bedini and Ron Cole. This motor/energizer is highly efficient and unique in that it returns almost all of the energy it uses back to the source battery which can then transform it into usable energy again.
Magnetic window motor は、John Bedini と Ron Cole によって 1980年代に開発されテストされたモーターです。このモーター/エナジャイザーは、高効率であり、『消費したエネルギーのほとんどをソースバッテリーに戻し、再び使用可能なエネルギーに変換することができる』という点でユニークなものです。

Q: Why do they call it a window motor?
なぜ window motor と呼ぶのですか?

A: The window motor is so named (I think) because the motor coil windings form a rectangular frame around the rotor which spins in the “A field” of the magnetic window that the coil creates. See Files/Magnetic Window Motor Files/afield.jpg
(私が思うに)Window motor は、コイルの生み出す磁力窓(?)の A フィールドの中でローターが回転し、そのローターの周りに矩形のフレームにモーターのコイルが巻きつけられているからです。 Files/Magnetic Window Motor Files/afield.jpg を参照してください。

Q: Where can I find a circuit diagram for the full sequential bipolar switch circuit used with the window motor?
window motor に使われる 『連続した双極スイッチイング回路』 の完全な回路図はどこで入手できますか?

A: See Files/Magnetic Window Motor Files/dsw1.jpg or Sequential bipolar circuit.jpg
Files/Magnetic Window Motor Files/dsw1.jpg または Sequential bipolar circuit.jpg を見てください。

Q: Is the full sequential bipolar circuit the only circuit that can be used with this style rotor/coil arrangement?
full sequential bipolar circuit (『充分に連続して起こる双極の回路』 と訳せばいいのか?) は、このスタイルのローター/コイル装置で使える唯一の回路なのですか?

A: No, There are several circuits that work with a window motor type coil/rotor. Look at Files/Magnetic Window Motor Files for some examples.
いいえ。Window motor タイプのローター/コイルで動作する回路はいくつかあります。Files/Magnetic Window Motor Files にある何例かを見てください。

Q: Is the Window Motor style rotor/coil arrangement the only geometry that works with the Full Sequential Bipolar Switch circuit?
Window motor スタイルのローター/コイル装置は、 Full Sequential Bipolar Switch 回路で動作する唯一つの幾何学(?)なのですか?(ローターとコイルの取り付け方や巻き方などを言ってるのだと思います)

A: No, There are several rotor/coil arrangements that will work with the Full Sequential Bipolar Switch circuit. Look at Files/Magnetic Window Motor Files for some examples.
いいえ。Full Sequential Bipolar Switch 回路で動作する装置は、いくつかあります。Files/Magnetic Window Motor Files の例を見てください。

Q: I saw a video on Johns Site where he is running a window motor using only a capacitor. Could you please tell me more about it?
John のサイト上で、キャパシターのみを使って Window motor を走らせているビデオを見ました。これについてもっと詳しく教えてもらえますか?

A: What that is is a 6 inch long
steel hexagon with 2 inch flats with 6 by 2 by 1 inch ceramic 8 magnets. This is
run with the full sequential bipolar circuit (See Files/Magnetic Window Motor Files/dsw1.jpg). Because of the iron rotor it spins
slower but with a good deal of torque. This always fascinates me as it draws 25ma
at idle and a max of 500ma or 6W at full load which is much more than 6W worth
of work. The circuit was made to run in backfeeding to the primary and not in
the form of pulsing once per rotation (which is more ideal for self-running
possibilities). It also was not running in charging a secondary bank.”
Rick Friedrich from post 7604

Q: What was the size of the tall white capacitor John was using in the video?

A: The cap was mentioned on the window list probably, but it would have been about
a 60 to 80V 22,000uF.
Rick Friedrich from post 7634

Q: Are there any pictures of a completed full sequential bipolar circuit?

A: http://www.rpmgt.org/BipolarLargePic.jpg

Q: About getting the circuit to trigger and tuning.

A: This setup requires a high and low set of switching on the trigger wires to get
you up to speed, and possibly even a third if you really want to push things up
fast. Go to the Files section and see the following folder:
Magnetic Window Motor Files
See the following file: mcct1.jpg
Here you see what I am talking about on the left side. One switch parallels a
lower value resistor with the higher value resistor. To start the motor you
close the switch and in the case of that circuit you have 680 ohms. When it gets
up to speed you switch it out so this circuit will run on the 7.5k resitor at
that point. So when I finish the large version of this motor I will have a whole
range of levels/switches for all the 150 circuits at this point on a throttle for
changing speed while driving a car.
This circuit is half of the sequential circuit in the kit. Notice the values of
the other resistors which are also higher than what is in the kit. I will send
2.7k and 3.3K resistors, but there may be a desire to have other values yet. It
will take time to see what is best, but it is not that big of a deal to change
these out. These values are not arbitrary and depend on what voltage you are
running the system and how many circuits you are running off of each trigger
wire. Further, it depends on how you are loading the system mechanically because
the rpm determines the amount of power the trigger wire collects from the
magnets, which is used to regulate the main transistor openings and closings.
Essentially you are always trying to find the optimum sweet spot if you are
going to change your loads or running voltages. Again, you set it all up with
two motor windings, but then want to add more. Now you have to figure out all
over again what is ideal.
Rick Friedrich from post 7647

Q: Can you explain more about the different types of switching?

A: One possible drawback to having the trigger strand in this setup is when you you
have a lot of wire, or many strands to make the width of the trigger coil fairly
fat or deep. This may give needlessly extended switching time on on the
transistors. At least this comes to mind in my head. John said to me once that
if you use hall switching you want to make the magnets small so that the on time
is short. So the same thing would apply here. So one could easily make an
external trigger coil, or we could see how these turn out. So again, I will send
halls with the shipment of the DVDs when they are made and I'll see about
getting little magnets. Further, the hall switching or external trigger coil
will give some flexability to advancing the timing. Trigger timing can be done
with a parallel wire, external wire, Hall switching, optical switching, or even
commutator switching, all of which you see in John's many different motor
setups. Which one you use will come down to what you wish to accomplish or which
you have on hand. The parallel wire switching is the most common and easiest to

With the hall switching you can see that the halls are placed 180 degrees from
each other mounted on the frame while the Hall magnets are attached to the shaft
on a disc at 120 degrees from each other. Usually the little disk magnets point
S pole out to switch the Hall transistor. Each time a manet passes each Hall it
turns on the main transistors for as long as the magnet turns it on (thus the
need for small magnets, one could even use scalar beams here). Thus one Hall
switches ever other large magnetic pole on the big magnets, and the other Hall
switches all the others. Thus three small magnets are all that is necessary for
a six pole motor. One magnet for a two pole, etc. On John's last Window motor,
the black bike wheel, he had one trigger magnet on a six pole motor. Why? So
that only one set of poles would fire so that the other poles would only be used
for energizer collection and would charge the battery while the motor was off.
This was arranged because all the wires were in parallel, I believe 8 strands.
More ideally is the motor with the planetary ball, the red fan in the case,
where the energizer windings are out of phase with the motor and trigger
windings, because you don't want to charge the battery while it is in motor

What to do with the #26 wires if you go to hall switching or otherwise? A good
question. They can be used for energizer windings that are isolated from the
motor windings, like in a trifillar monopole coil.
Rick Friedrich from post 7647

Q: My window motor has some vibration at top speed. How can I smooth it out?

A: Add some flywheel to the setup. It will help to smooth it out and slow it down a little.
Rick Friedrich from post 7651

Q: What about the motor on Johns site with the planetary ball and the small red fan?

A: This is a very special machine that was very well crafted. The ball was just a
convenient rotor that presents no drag. You can see my video of it on the same
page. The ball has two magnetic poles on it which are round neos of opposite
polarity. The ball has some mass to it but you can see there is still an
additional flywheel on the end of the shaft. Further still, you see the
additional aluminum shaft off to the side that is attached to the fan. This is
not at all connected to the main shaft and motor. It is only magnetically
coupled in the sense that aluminum presents a drag to magnets. So as the rotor
turns the fields turn the aluminum and thus the fan. So all this made the rotor
spin slow which has its benefits. There is enough wire and speed to allow for
the LEDs to turn on off the generator windings. And also this is all run only by
a basic SG circuit with no recovery battery, and only a few D cell alkaline
batteries that are about 17 years old now. Two weeks ago I examined all of
John's motors on the shelf that were using the SG circuit with one battery. They
all had very old alkaline batteries and still ran every setup. He has a few
small pendulum setups one or two of which were shown in the videos. So these
batteries can receive charge back if you make the system just right, and they
can still work years later. I have done the same thing with a few of my window
motors, and when spinning it slowly and doing just a little work, you can use
the SG or SSG circuit to keep it spinning for years.
Rick Friedrich from post 7658

Q: Can you explain more about the different tuning possibilities?

A: Yes I said this was going to be a very interesting animal to tame. There are
several variables beyond the resistor values to deal with. One is the
positioning of the coil and that is not just one movement. The center of the
coil needs to be positioned between the two magnets on one side and the other
two on the other side, or directly above the center of the magnets whichever way
you look at it. So if you add more strands you must keep with that. I had it
built so that you could put about 7 strands of #23 wire at about 150 feet I
believe. I'll show my one setup shortly. The center of this fat coil will still
be positioned as mentioned above. But if I were to lift it off the machine the
geometry will change according to the angel of the magnetic super pole fields.
You have to envision what fields the poles so placed are doing. Directly over
the magnets is actually a zero field on purpose, as you do not get with the
ceramic magnet or regular window setup. With this setup we have pointed the
magnets towards each other so that they concentrate a super pole outward which
is more intense the closer to the rotor you get. Then it funnels out wider. So
you can play around with that and see the different relationships.

Secondly, as you change the position of the coils vertically and otherwise, you
will see how it affects the charging rate if you have a secondary battery on it,
as well as how it is affected under different loads. It will take a little time
to get a feel for it and what it wants to do. If you are going after high rpm
them it will be tuned one way, and for high torque another, further, if you want
high charging. There is a lot of potential with this machine, but I need to get
a flywheel on it and also put a commutator switch for pulsing it once every
rotation as John suggested two years back.

As for this system, it can exhibit what the other systems, especially what the
pendulum SSG does most notably. It can regulate itself in a way that
self-charges while seemingly drawing significant energy. The meters hardly ever
show you energy going back into the primary so a lot of people prematurely
abandon research here not realizing that the primary is often not draining as
fast as their meter is showing. The original SG was keeping itself charged, just
as I mentioned a few emails back about several of my and John's motors with
flashlight batteries. The SSG also can have some charge back to the primary. The
bipolar circuits as well, especially if the positive off the bridge is connected
to the primary positive or pulsed through a cap and switch.

These systems can be run as a sort of balance. I said you never know what you
can find with different resistance trigger values, and especially different
arrangements of resistors. A balance in that we have seen like in EFTV DVD 2
where C size batteries balance out with a 100Ah battery. It wants to equalize
the charge or potentials no matter what the capacity like water rushing from a
higher gradient to a lower, only not in the normal way of two batteries being
paralleled together. So with unequal capacities we can see equal exchanges,
therein lies one of the biggest secrets to this technology...

So in the same way you can create a potential in the coils that relates to the
potential in the battery and produce a beneficial result. Remember the old 1984
book what John said. You can send a signal back to the battery at low cost that
will keep it in recharge mode while still drawing from it. This can also happen
after you disconnect everything and the battery charges back up over a few hours
or a day. Thus my mention of a sabbath's day rest for your batteries in use.

I once brought a fan kit to John's shop and was given a set of batteries that
were basically charged up. I rotated them around and saw them drop a little here
and there in total charge. Then we would turn it off for lunch and let it rest.
Come back and the batteries were back up and under load at significantly higher
or restored voltages. I did that for a whole week and ended up with a higher
total charge in the batteries than when I started. But if I had just continued
to swap them without resting for one hour a day they would have been drained in
one day. This, again, is learning to deal with natures ways.

So you are going to find with this and the pendulum setup especially, that it
can behave in this way. You cannot trust the meters are telling you everything,
or what will result, until you take the time to fully do experiments no matter
what the meter is telling you. Remember, the meters tell you what is being
wasted by the system, and will not show you radiant charging of batteries very

As for the balancing of the rotor, it is not easy as no magnets are made equal.
I put a lot of pressure on my machinist (who is not local in this project) to do
his best to get it where it is. To get anything better would demand a lot or
more time and expense. 4700 rpm is a good speed. Once you get a flywheel on
there it will help a little in this respect. But look out if you try to go to
52V input!

Anyway, it is a real curious toy to tinker with. Just wait till you see the
biggest model that I have! All I need for that is a 13.5" diameter by 5" wide
plastic housing to encase the rotor so that I can encase epoxied kevlar around
the magnets to keep them from flying off at really high rpms. I don't seem to
have a solution for that at this point so the project remains dormant.
Rick Friedrich from post 7663

Q: Rick what are some of the things that you did with the Window motor kit A?

A: I put the 1k pot where the 220 ohm resistor was, and placed the 220 in series
with the 100 ohm resistor and had a bulb in series for fun. I also had 3.3k
resistors in place of the 470 ohms. I put a 470 in parallel with the 220 when I
wanted to lighten things up a little. Also, when I got up to speed I put the
other 470s in place of the pot.
Where I have the pot and 470 ohms, which is between PNP Emitter and the
collector of the small NPN gate driver transistor, that value is critical. In
this motor it is more critical than tuning the base resistance of the trigger
coil resistor off the small transistor.

I am working off one of the prototypes that really vibrates a lot so it is not
as good as the ones out there you guys have. But it ran super fast drawing about
500 to 700ma with the full circuit. I ran it also at 24V and it really was
flying again. I won't push it higher until I can get one going without so much
vibration, or everything clamped down. I will shortly show this one hooked up to
a testing bed my machinist made for me, which gives it a little bit of flywheel.

All the above values will change somewhat when we add more circuits and motor
windings as mentioned before. And all that will be needed is to make all of the
circuits the same but leave one half of one circuit with a low resistor switched
in where I have above mentioned where I put the pot and the 470 ohm. Going too
low will blow the little NPN, but you can probably get away with 100 ohms for 15
to 30 seconds at least to get it up to speed. It will not require any serious
spinning of the shaft as some have experienced if you do that to get it going.

I'm sure the kit would work better with more wire. It would be perfect to use
two to three times the wire and place the coils in the same spot or around the
whole body as is the usual way. I was after more of a motor with this setup, and
as such wanted to make it so you could have many strands. But to make this more
along the lines of a self-runner toy you would want to have a flywheel and
tripple the wire length.

I had no problem with the trigger wires on this newly made circuit so I think
my multistrand circuit had one blown transistor that I have not spotted yet. So
I think the dual wire system should be fine.

I think the dual wire system may perform differently as mentioned, than the Hall
switching. With the hall switching you can change the timing and the on time is
shorter, so the current draw is less. On John's motor with the steel rotor and
ceramics, it draws 25ma at idle, and as you load it it draws upto 500ma. And its
magnets and rotor are its own flywheel. With my kit loading it down does not
draw more ma. under these above settings. This may be due to the settings or the
difference in timing and from using Halls from trigger wires.

When running the output off the bridge nowhere, it draws more to run the motor.
When connected to the primary battery or another battery it draws 10 to 20% less
while not changing motor speed noticeably. Ideally you want to store in a cap
and pulse it once every revolution when the motor is off, so between firings.

Well it is one interesting piece of work!
Rick Friedrich from post 7699

Q: What are some of the things I should keep in mind while testing the Window Motor as well as the SG and SSG?

A: Important email to keep in files Re: Window Motor Kit (crosspost from BM2)

Josh is reporting below something we have discussed over the years, and which
John has been demonstrating for some 30+ years with his machines. This affect
can be confused with battery levels that go up and down and hold out for a
while. Sometimes only time will tell which you are experiencing.

Quite often you will find batteries to dive to certain levels and hold out for a
long time. There are several reasons for this which are purely conventional.

One of the things that happens with a LAB is that it is often sulfated in areas
that act like clogged arteries. These can get broken up under charge or even
discharge when you are getting some back charge in the Bedini systems. Thus you
can find either bank, especially the charging bank, to go up and down (more so
for the more sulfated batteries. We have seen 12V batteries go up to 27V on our
rejuvenators momentarily before then come down (and I have even seen good
batteries go up to above 40V on one of our experiments at John's shop). There is
a lot to know about batteries; it is a whole science in itself. And in relation
to this technology it is very much extended.

In relation to this phenomena no doubt many of you have thought you may have
been experiencing it only to later find that the battery later dropped
significantly. That may or may not have been such an example of significant back
charging. There are several things that we know are affected here and perhaps
others that we do not know. Hundreds of people have reported their machines
giving such results for a certain time and then later to not do it. Below are
some factors to consider.

1. State of the battery, or its condition. As mentioned above. If the battery(s)
is at all sulfated results can vary. Rejuvenation is NOT an efficient process so
we do not recommend using used batteries for these experiments (unless fully
rejuvenated). Restoring batteries with this technology is a different experiment
and should never be confused no matter how tempted you are for lack of funds.
Rejuvenation does heat the battery so cold boiling is not as readily seen.

Batteries used in this process can become more and more conditioned to act as
receives. The chemical structure actually changes over time for the better. This
is like living growth and healthful development, where conventional charging
growth is more like cancer which destroys the desired process.

2. The trigger resistance of the base resistor may change if it is a
potentiometer. You have all seen how the machine can change with the slightest
turn. Pots are not stable. Thus you may fall in or out of a general sweet spot
or even out of a very narrow really good resulting sweet spot back into the
general sweet spot.

3. State of charge of the secondary bank, especially if you do not have a bulb
on the trigger. As the charging battery charges up the bulb will become brighter
to balance out the system (with really tiny or low power systems a bulb consumes
too much energy). Certain Bedini systems, generally those with lots of wire, act
like a balance between the two batteries where the system likes to keep them at
the same level of charge. This was shown in DVD2 with the pendulum a little.
Thus a small battery on the front may be useful to trigger a charge on a battery
100 times its size. We often talk about impedance matching of the batteries to
the system. This is a big topic that is not easy to understand. But it does not
merely relate to matching the charging battery size to the coil, but dealing
with the level of charges we want to work with and how we charge the batteries,

4. The science of magnetricity deals with energy flowing in magnetic streams all
over the earth. This is affected by the rotation of the earth and many other
things. The streams flow differently in different locations. Everyone accepts
some of this in the general use of the compass. But you will find there is much
more to the science than generally discussed. While position of the Bedini
system is not at all dependent upon finding any specific location, we do see
that magnetic streams do positively or negatively affect wheel rotation of the
various systems. Obviously we know that placing a big transformer nearby can
give you worse results, and perhaps the same goes for large power lines or cell
phone towers. These do not give benefits as if we could tap into their energy,
but rather hinder the health of not only your bodies, but the motors.

We see that the time of day makes a noticeable difference in these streams in
relation to the rotation rpm and performance. At night you usually get better

We also see that certain physical locations give better results than others in
the same respect.

We also see that leaving a system running for a long time can develop a certain
location as perhaps a stream port. This is where it gets really controversial
and is merely a theory. There seems to be a growing effect in a local area. This
has more to do with efficiency in charging than improved wheel rotation, so it
may not be due to magnetic streams being increased in that location. I don't

Again, the magnetic streams flow is relatively minor in relation to benefiting
or hindering a particular system. It needs to be explored but these systems to
not stand or fall upon such. What is more important is the geometry of the
particular system and the streams it produces in the magnets and coils. This is
fundamental. Naturally when one understands these flows one can build with
nature and not against it.

5. When we create a disruptive discharge the radiant flows in all directions.
And if the current has a long path to travel it may be shut off before it can
dampen out the radiant event or effect... Bigger coils can usually see this when
there is a short on time with the system tuned right. And just as amp meters do
not indicate the rate of charge going into the charging battery, they also do
not show the back-flow going to the primary. Thus one may judge that a given
battery is draining at such and such amps. In many cases the battery actually
has less capacity than an experimenter thinks, because they only judge its
capacity by how long it takes to discharge it. Yet in many cases it is receiving
a back charge. So one may prematurely judge after 5 minutes that a system draws
so much energy and only puts out so much less. This may even look as bad as 10%
recovery, yet one may be able to swap batteries around (on systems with the cap
pulser) for a long time (much longer than what the meters would indicate you
could do). It is fairly established the amp meters do not show you the rate of
charge in the secondary battery, and even hinder the charging effect. But it is
less known that the amp meters do not show you the same on the primary. The
effect is much less in degree so it is often missed. We all know that the actual
metering is very difficult to calculate due to the pulse nature of the system.
But no matter what meter and calculations are used the points above are readily
seen by professionals and amateurs.

6. Resting the primary in two different ways affects your results. Short and
long rests I mean.

A. Long rests represent letting the battery sit for an hour, a day, or a few
days. Everyone knows that batteries have a tendency to bounce back at least a
little. Most consider it insignificant equaling only a surface charge potential
in this respect. Some skeptics way back used to think these sort of systems
fundamentally drained the batteries of life force or something so that you could
get really good results for a short while to fool people and then the chemistry
would be useless soon after. Years of testimony on the lists have shown just the
opposite. Batteries on these systems generally are far better years later than
even directly out of the factory.

We have always stressed giving your batteries rest from time to time. They need
it, and you give them the ability to continue to charge without the system
(again, especially if they are always in the same location physically). Often
you will find a battery to continue to charge for 30 minutes, sometimes even for
a day.

B. Short rests represent something more advanced in Bedini systems. Few people
understand John Bedini's patience. He is not a perfect man as he will tell you,
but he has some patience with people that has amazed me. But what I am talking
about is with his understanding of how the energy works. Everyone, and I mean
almost all of you folks as well, have a tendency to want the quick fix solution
to power all your needs. You think amps and hot power. You want big power and
are going to push the system hard until it shows up in five minutes. Some of the
systems can show big results right away but most of the Bedini systems are
something that everyone will miss. And this is also in respect to giving
batteries rest. Not just the secondary, but the primary. This is where big
flywheels come in, and the right timing. This is where you run the system for
very little power by having it switch the primary battery on for a very short
time compared to the time it is off. Whether it is the primary powering or the
secondary batteries charging, it is very similar. And this is where time is
compressed so to speak. Energy is stored in the flywheel (which is often
benefited by the unique geometry of the magnetic arrangements producing ideal
streams...). The primary is pulsed in only a short part of time. It also
receives radiant back charge during this rest period, and thus can even remain
charged or charging while the secondary is also charging. In the same way the
secondary battery may only need a small charge for a very short time in order to
get the process moving. It may take time to see this happen. But you will all
have a tendency to waste energy in trying to charge batteries to speed up the
process. These comments are more to do with the capacitor systems than with the
basic SSG. Anyway, it is like giving the batteries a kick in the pants now and
then to get them moving. Then they get used to it and flow. Time increases this.
And you can even get the timing just right to where the primary does not see a

7. Finally, you can resonate the system and batteries to get improved affects.
This is a big subject. But again, it is not fundamental in getting results. We
are dealing with much more than merely resonating things to get energy out of
them. This was a mistake people made about this technology early on. We are
dealing with magnetic streams in the magnets and coils and negative energy flow
processes beyond resonance. Again, you can match impedances and get more of a
ringing in the system to amplify the affect. This can be done in many ways using
capacitors and inductors with proper tuning of the trigger and timing of dumping
caps. Also it is good to place capacitors across the primary input to the
circuit as close as possible.

All these and more affect the results. All the Bedini systems can display this
phenomena depending on what you do. Bigger batteries will usually display this
more, but it then becomes a very lengthy process to try and verify. We often use
small alkaline or NiCd batteries on the front end, some of which are decades old
still having charge in them enough to run the systems.

In the end you have to look at this as not merely a mechanical science that is
easy to understand in all particulars--you cannot put it in a box and fully
classify it--but you have to look at it as an art. You have to acquire a feel
for it. My cousin is perhaps the best trumpet player in the world and told us
that 10% is talent the rest is effort. You have got to sit down and understand
your instrument. To master it you have to work with it and not against it. It
just occurred to me why John has been so successful with this science, as he
first had an ear and ability to work with music. The difference here is like
between hot and cold, harsh and gentle, discord and harmony, impatience and
patience. If one does not have an ear to hear or the time to experimentally know
the differences between these things they will not be fit to make good music or
work these systems.

Rick Friedrich

--- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, AtlantisRD wrote:
> yes you are right is there back charging effect.at my machine at 1.2amp This
is the WM kit from Rick.
> Atlantis
> ________________________________
> Von: Josh Gowen
> An: bedini_monopole3@yahoogroups.com
> Gesendet: Montag, den 23. März 2009, 16:14:30 Uhr
> Betreff: [Bedini_Monopole3] Window Motor Kit (crosspost from BM2)
> Well I have seen the charging effect I was talking about again. I see why this
effect is only alluded to in all of the info that is out there. No one would
believe you if you told them, and they might not notice it when they try to
replicate, because of the way the battery acts when it is running. Don't ever
expect to see this effect in a video, the video would have to be too long to be
> Basically the battery acts as you would expect it to when under load, but when
you measure the voltage after you let the battery rest (1-7hrs) its voltage is
higher than when you started. It is hard to realize that you may have achieved
this condition when the circuit is running, so most people would not pay any
attention to the batteries voltage after rest in relation to the previous run.
They are thinking about the next run, but I am only running the circuit with a
primary battery so that is what I am looking at. I know there is more to this
than I am currently seeing, based on some of the video footage I've seen where
John is demonstrating his mastery of the effect.
> I'm not sure how to explain what to look for when the circuit is running. When
you start the circuit the batterys voltage drops. As you play with the trigger
resistance you notice the batterys voltage either dropping faster or slower.
There is a place (resistance) where the batterys voltage seems to stop dropping
or even slowly rise. This is the place where you are most likely to notice the
effect (based on my experiments) . I have experimented with draws from .015 to
somewhere over 1 amp. I have noticed the effect when I am in the middle of that
range, about .400a. I did not notice it when I ran in the .015 to .200 range. It
could occur at higher than .400 also since I didn't know what I should be
looking for when I was running the circuit there.
> Hope this helps clarify what I am seeing.
> I look forward to hearing your input.
> Thanks,
> Josh
> PS. This time I'm sure there was no change in the ambient temp for 24 hours
prior and 12 hours after, I also switched to 4 200ah 6volt batteries in series.

This is (above) the complete thread associated with post 7894

Q: Rick, can you tell me about the other window motors you are planning?

A: I'm looking to do two types of window motors. One with a steel core and the
other with plastic. I've got one machinist now on the steel rotor motor I
mentioned the other day, and we'll see how that turns. Out. I'm making six to
start and will see the interest from there. It will be the same as John's with
some extras. This motor I may make bigger if there is interest and ability. It
is looking like steel is too expensive to work with or to cut so this may be the
biggest steel window motor I'll make.

The other is the kind in the first kit, which is plastic. I plan on making a
plastic mold to house the magnets and allow for a gap around them to make a
kevlar/epoxy ring to prevent it from flying apart. I am not going to move a bit
further in this project until I can have a plastic 13.5" OD ring by 5" wide made
up for my present rotor so that I can wrap it with kevlar/epoxy and secure it.
Even PVC that size would do if I could find it that size and cap it on both
sides. As soon as I get this I'll finish it up and move on with it.

Whatever way it is done will be expensive. But it is worth it to me from what I
have already seen with this machine driving it with just 1 circuit at 24V and
50W. You could not stop the shaft with your hand. And the magnetic streems that
flow out of this are incredible. How many times I have walked past this with
tools that are taken right out of my hands! We are talking about all the
magnetism of 600 pounds of pulling force being compressed and scalarized into
superbeams. Nothing is going inward. It is a sharp concentrated field followed
by a zero field. Great for motor and charging potential.




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